Ubud…sorta like Penland, only not.

Ubud is an artist enclave. The place is practically drowning in master stone carvers, but there is also a healthy number of painters, potters, jewelers and even some glass blowers. On John Hardy’s advice, we went to visit a masterful Raku and ceramics shop called Gaya Ceramic, and a glassblower named Ron Seivertson relocated from California.

Both places were set up as a gallery, production center, and workshop for classes. Both places had the master craftsman and then production teams with varying specialties and skill levels. Both took orders from world brands and participated in exhibits on the world stage. And both were very small unassuming operations where you wouldn’t know any of this unless you asked many questions, which we did.

Gaya Ceramic has an impressive work space filled with soft light. The space made even opaque pottery and ceramic glow from the inside out.

Gaya Ceramic production area

beautiful light of the Gaya Ceramic production area

Gaya Ceramic production area

The light is filtered through a large tent-like ceiling made of what looks like incredibly thick treated canvas

Gaya Cramic

What you may not be able to tell from this picture is that these coffee-cup shapes are actually giant, like 2 feet in diameter

Gaya Ceramic for Donna Karan

These pieces are being shipped to NYC for a Donna Karan collection. They are beautiful and delicate.

Gaya Ceramic production samples

We got a look at the upstairs sample room, which was filled with pieces to order. There were cupboards designated specifically to their top client collections, like Donna Karan, Bvlgari, Armani etc. Seriously, this 4000 sq ft facility that incorporated the gallery, production, stocking and inventory and shipping areas supplies top luxury brands all over the world.

After leaving Gaya, we visited a glass blower named Ron Seivertson. His work is fantastic and some at fantastic prices. We saw one piece that was priced at $3 billion (which, admittedly isn’t as much as all that since the Indonesian currency is at roughly 10,000 to 1 US Dollar, so $300,000). The super duper prices were from a gallery exhibition involving 4 designers who collaborated together, one of which was an archeologist. There were incredible dinosaur heads and “fossils” all made actually of glass…

Ron Seivertson, Dinosaur

Dinosaur head made of blown glass

Ron Seivertson, Horizon Glassworks

There were more traditional approaches to glass works as well, at prices I could handle, except for the toting-a-delicate-object-around-Indonesia-ad-then-home part.

Ron Seivertson, Horizon Glassworks

I especially liked a series of collaborative pieces with a local painter. The basic glass piece would be blown and the painter would paint on top of it, and then a layer of glass would be blown over the top to encase the painting inside the glass.

These places, Horizon Glassworks and Gaya Ceramic, were only 2 of a huge number of artisan workshops in Ubud. You could spend days visiting various artists and weeks taking classes from them. These 2 places, at least, felt very authentic despite being intentionally set up for tourists. We hope to spend more time in the Ubud artisan area and learn more about how artists come to live and work here in the midst of people like us tromping all through their day asking questions and oohing and ahhing all the time.

Read Aly’s take for additional viewpoints on our artisan visits.

It’s wonderful to take a shower outside

I didn’t think I would particularly enjoy the luxe camping element of having private yet outdoor shower, but I was wrong. It was really pleasant, and I didn’t see any wildlife in the shower area until well after I was done and dressed and a large gecko sped down the wall :-)

Anyway, before I move on to new adventures, had to finish the photo story of Bambu Indah, so here you go:

Bambu Indah, Udang House Shower

Outdoor Shower- sort of. There were walls and a ceiling of sorts, and privacy screens so the other houses couldn’t see, but it was still open air, and it was great.

Bambu Indah, Udang House bed

Here is the bed. Each evening, they put the mosquito curtains down. There is a small air conditioner in the ceiling area of the bed. Because the mosquito curtain is more tightly woven than a traditional net, you can keep cool without necessarily cooling the whole room.

Bambu Indah, Udang House

Here is the path to get to our house which is in the background

Bambu Indah pool

Here is the pool, with a few of the house villas around it.

Bambu Indah, Udang House view

The view from our porch

Bambu Indah view

View of the rice fields from the bluff of Bambu Indah.

Bambu Indah

After a zillion hours of travel, missing luggage and a nauseating drive from the airport to Ubud, we arrive at our destination, Bambu Indah. I should tell you all about it and its owner, John Hardy, but my internet connection is unpredictable, so I will just try to get some pix of this amazing place up instead:

Bambu Indah

The first structure you see upon arrival is the giant lobby and restaurant building – all open air, all built of bamboo using traditional building methods. It is breathtaking.

Bambu Indah Lobby

Upon entering the lobby, there is a woven structure within the larger structure that is the main office. the restaurant extends behind it.

Bambu Indah Lounge

This bamboo structure is the centerpiece of the grounds. It is 2-story open air with a grand view of the rice fields below the bluff edge. It serves as a lounge and they start the day there with yoga each morning.

Bambu Indah View

This is the view from the first floor of the lounge/yoga building. You can barely make out the rice fields in the distance.

Bambu Indah, Udang House

Each “room” is actually it’s own house…authentic Java homes deconstructed and then rebuilt on this site. Our house has a glass floor above water – for real! You can see shrimp and fish swimming in it and it is subtly lit at night.

This is truly an inspiring and beautiful location. The views are magnificent, the feeling is calm and tranquil, and the sounds are of rushing water and birds. YAY!